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Self Care Scarf

Take a trip to your happy place (the yarn aisle) and treat yo’ self to the softest, prettiest yarn you can find. I highly encourage you to keep this one for yourself. You absolutely deserve to make and wear this gorgeous scarf. It’s not selfish, it’s self care!

I used Yarn Bee Caterina for my scarf in the Emerald Blue colorway. I got it from Hobby Lobby. The yarn was wonderfully soft and I love the long color changes. There were a few spots where the yarn was a bit thicker than usual but you can’t tell in the finished piece. There were no knots in the skeins and the yarns ends were relatively easy to find, yay! It’s a thinner yarn than I’m used to working with (Light Worsted, DK Weight 3 yarn) but I was still able to use a nice big hook (5.5 mm) thanks to the closed nature of the stitch work)

I designed this pattern to be relaxing and satisfying. Here are some of the features:

  • No long starting chain
  • No sewing / No edging
  • No color changes
  • Works up quickly
  • A fun asymmetrical triangle shape
  • Textured, closed stitch work
  • Warm and cozy

I used a large font size in this PDF to make it easier to read and I didn’t include any pictures in the PDF so it’s more printer-friendly. I have also included a styling guide to give you some inspiration for all the different ways you can wear this scarf!

Everyone will be asking you what stitch you used. It is such an eye-catching design with lots of texture. I’ll let you in on a little secret though….it’s just a clever combination of single crochets and double crochets.

Get the pattern in my Love Crafts store HERE.

Add it to your Ravelry projects queue HERE.

Pin it for later HERE.

Shout out to my pattern testers for all their hard work.

I love the colors they chose for their scarves, don’t you?

Please do not redistribute this pattern as your own, but feel free to sell finished items made from this pattern as long as you credit Nine Inspired as the designer.

CuBee

This fun project is made primarily with two panels of mini C2C crochet. A box is used as an insert to give your bee structure and form.

You could drill holes in the box and insert an LED light to use as a nightlight…

…or put some weight in the box and use it as a bookend!

You could also choose to stuff the bee with polyfill instead of using a box to make it extra snuggly. This design is very versatile! I can’t wait to see what you all choose to do with your adorable new little friends.

The FREE graphs and instructions for the antennae, wings and stinger are below.

A printable PDF version of this pattern with written row by row instructions is available in my Love Crafts store for only $1.99! Thank you for your support!

Add it to your Ravelry queue HERE.

Pin it for later HERE.

CuBee Butt

Materials

1 Skein – Lion Brand Feels Like Butta in Yellow

1 Skein – Lion Brand Feels Like Butta in Black

(or other Worsted, Medium Weight 4 yarn)

Scrap yarn in pink, blue and white

5.5 mm hook (for body)

4.o mm hook (for finishing)

Skill Level

Sizes

One Size

Yardage

430 yards / 395 meters

Finished Measurements

6 x 6 x 6 inches

15 x 15 x 15 centimeters

Abbreviations 

US Terminology

ch = chain

st = stitch

sk = skip

sc = single crochet

hdc = half double crochet

dc = double crochet

Gauge

A square consisting of 8 blocks on each side should be roughly 3 x 3 inches (8 x 8 cm).

Notes

This pattern is worked in the mini corner to corner (mini C2C) method. You will be making two rectangular panels and then sewing them together. Your first diagonal row will consist of 1 square. Each subsequent row will add one square. After the first corner you will begin rows on the WS of the work by decreasing. After the second corner you will start and end all rows by decreasing.

To make the first square: ch 4, hdc in 3rd and 4th ch from hook (1st square & row 1 completed)

To start a row on an increase: ch 4, hdc in 3rd and 4th ch from hook, *sl st to ch 2 space of the next square from the previous row (you will need to flip the square up to reach it), ch 2, hdc twice in same ch 2 space* repeat from * to * 

To end a row on an increase your last square will be worked above the final square of the row before.

To start a row on a decrease: turn your work, sl st once along the top of the last square you made and once into the ch 2 space of the last square, *ch 2, hdc twice in same ch 2 space, sl st to ch 2 space of the next square from the previous row* repeat from * to * 

To end a row on a decrease your last square will be worked next to the final square of the row below.

Color Changes: When you have 3 loops of your hook from the last hdc of the current color, draw up a loop from the new color to pull through the 3 loops and finish the hdc, then sl st to the next square and complete it as normal with the new color.

Panel 1

 

Panel 2

Border:

Using your 4 mm hook, work 2 sc in the side of each square going all the way around each panel, ch 2 when you get to each corner, switch colors as you go so the border color matches the color of the squares you are working into.

Stinger:

*using black yarn*

Magic Circle

Round 1: ch 1, sc 5, do not join or turn.

Rounds 2-5:  ch 1, sc around, do not join or turn.

Fasten off, use yarn ends to sew to the body. Place it directly in the bullseye of panel 2.

Antennae (make 2):

*using black yarn*

Ch 4

Row 1: hdc in the 3rd loop from the hook, hdc, turn.

Row 2: ch 2, hdc 2 together, turn.

Rows 3-6: ch 2, hdc, turn.

Fasten off, use yarn ends to sew to the head. Use the two little single black squares on panel 1 as a placement guide.

Wings (make 2):

*using white yarn*

Magic Circle

Note: Stitch counts for the round include both dc stitches and ch spaces. 

Round 1: Ch 4 [counts as dc, ch 1], (dc, ch 1) x4, sl st to the 3rd ch of the starting ch. (10)

Round 2: Ch 4, (dc, ch 1) in each ch space and dc around, sl st to the 3rd ch of the starting ch. (20)

Round 3: Ch 4, dc in next ch space, * (dc, ch 1) in next dc), dc in next ch space. Repeat from * around. Sl st to the 3rd ch of the starting ch. (30)

Round 4: Ch 4, dc in next ch space, dc in next dc, *(dc, ch 1) in next dc, dc in next ch space, dc in next dc. Repeat from * around. Sl st to the 3rd ch of the starting ch. (40)

Fasten off, use yarn ends to sew wings onto body. Use the two little diagonal black lines on the second panel as a placement guide.

Finishing:

With right sides facing out, line up the top of the middle 14 squares of panel 1 with the left side of panel 2, sl st through the sc border on both panels to bind them together, ch 2 when you get to the corner.

Continue binding the two panels together in this fashion. Insert the box or stuff before you do the last 2 sides.

Please do not redistribute this pattern as your own, but feel free to sell finished items made from this pattern as long as you credit Nine Inspired as the designer. I would love to see your work on social media!  Tag me @nineinspired

Cookie Cutie Skirt

I am so ready for Christmas time! I love the holiday cheer, the festive music and, of course, all the delicious food. Don’t you? This adorable skirt was inspired by everyone’s favorite holiday treat – gingerbread cookies!

This pattern features:

No need to count stitches after the first round

No sewing and hardly noticeable seam

A drawstring waist for a snug fit

White ric rac stitches to mimic frosting

3 red “gumdrop” buttons on the front

Available Now!

Get the pattern in my LoveCrafts store HERE!

Add it to your Ravelry projects queue HERE!

Pin it for later HERE!

Please do not redistribute this pattern as your own, but feel free to sell finished items made from this pattern as long as you credit Nine Inspired as the designer. If you make this pattern, please tag me on social media @nineinspired so I can see!

Mountain Reflection Fingerless Gloves

These unisex fingerless gloves are perfect for driving and texting (just not at the same time!). The pattern is made using the tapestry crochet technique. If you’ve never done this technique before, this is a great little pattern to learn from. Make a pair for yourself and a few extras for quick Christmas gifts!

A printable PDF version of this pattern with written instructions for the patterned rows and a blank graph for designing your own pattered gloves is available in my Love Crafts store for only $1.99! Thank you for your support!

Add it to your Ravelry queue HERE.

Pin it for later HERE.

Materials

Worsted Weight Yarn in 2 Colors (Caron Simply Soft is suggested)

Size G6 – 4 mm hook or size needed to obtain gauge

Skill Level

Yardage

110 yards Main Color

40 yards Accent Color

Finished Measurements

7 inches around wristband unstretched

7 inches from bottom to top

Abbreviations 

ch = chain

sk = skip

sc = single crochet

st = stitch

sl st = slip stitch

hdc = half double crochet

blo = back loops only

inc = increase

dec = decrease

Gauge

ch 18

Row 1: sc in the 2nd ch from the hook and in each ch until the end. (17)

Rows 2-16: ch 1, sc in each st across, turn. (17)

Finished square should measure 4 inches X 4 inches (10 cm X 10 cm). 

Notes

The wristband of the glove is worked in rows. The band is then slip stitched together to form a circle and the rest of the glove is worked in rounds. 

The pattern on the gloves is the same on the front and the back so there is no need for separate instructions for the left and right glove. Both gloves have the same thumbhole placement.

Color Changes: When you have 2 loops of your hook from the last dc of the current color, draw up a loop from the new color to pull through the 2 loops and finish the dc, then sl st to the next square and complete it as normal with the new color.

Tapestry Crochet: To ensure straight lines and a clear pattern, work in the blo for the patterned rounds. Always carry your unused yarn along with you by holding it on top of the stitches you are working into. Every so often, gently tug on your unused yarn to keep it taut. Do not pull so hard that your work starts to bunch up. 

Wristband

ch 9

Row 1: sc in 2nd ch from hook and each other ch across. (8)

Rows 2-30: ch 1, working in blo, sc in each st across. (8)

Hold both ends of the wristband together and sl st through both the 1st and last rows at the same time to form a circle. Turn the band inside out to hide the sl st seam. 

Round 1: Working evenly along the sides of your sc rows, ch 1, sc 30. (30)

Round 2: ch 1, working in blo, *sc 2, inc* repeat from * to * 9 more times. (40)

Patterned Rounds

Graph Notes: Start at the bottom right hand corner and read from right to left, repeat each round twice. Always carry your unused yarn with you, even when it won’t be used in that round, otherwise your gauge will be off.  Do not join after every round, simply work on top of the last rounds stitches in a spiral. Round 10 has the thumbhole. It is marked with a dot on the graph. You will need to read the written instructions for that round.

Round 12: ***thumb*** (ac) x 16, ch 8, sk 8, (ac) x 16

Round 13: (mc) x 2, ac, (mc) x 12, ac, (mc) ch 6, ac, (mc) x 12, ac, (mc) x 3  (TIP: work stitches over the thumb hole into the chains and around the dropped (ac) strand from the previous row)

Final Rounds

Complete these rounds after following the graph or written instructions for the patterned rounds.

Round 22: sl st to the first st from round 21, ch 2, hdc in same st and in the next 5, dec, *hdc 6, dec* repeat from * to * 3 more times. Sl st to first hdc of the round. (35)

Rounds 23-24: ch 2, working in the third loop, hdc around. Sl st to first hdc of the round. Cut yarn and weave in ends. (35)

Please do not redistribute this pattern as your own, but feel free to sell finished items made from this pattern as long as you credit Nine Inspired as the designer. Do not use my photos as your own. If you make this pattern, tag me @nineinspired on social media so I can see your amazing work!

Highlander Table Runner

Fall has got me feeling some type of way and I just can’t get enough plaid in my life! Add a touch of seasonal spirit to your table this season with my Highlander Table Runner.

I love the orange and white combination for Fall. It makes me think of pumpkin spice, Halloween, crunchy leaves and Thanksgiving dinner. Fall is by far my favorite season! Can you tell?

Mix up the colors to make your own version. How about red and white or green and white for Christmas? Or black and red for a more traditional buffalo plaid? As long as you pick two colors with high contrast, I’m sure it will turn out great!

Let’s talk about the pattern. It’s the C2C you know and love…with a twist!

The points of the table runner are NOT worked separately from the rectangle. The cat’s out of the bag…C2C is not just for squares anymore! The table runner is worked as two separate pentagons. Then you sew or slip stitch the two pentagons together along the flat sides. Don’t worry though, it’s not hard!

Learning this exciting NEW C2C technique is easy with my highly detailed PDF pattern that includes full color graphs, row by row written instructions and detailed diagrams! Also, rest assured, this pattern has been rigorously tested for clarity by my wonderful testers!

The tassels are totally optional but I think they really help pull the whole thing together. This table runner will be the talk of the evening at every dinner party you throw!

Get the pattern in my LoveCrafts store HERE.

Add it to your Ravelry projects queue HERE.

Please do not redistribute this pattern as your own, but feel free to sell finished items made from this pattern as long as you credit Nine Inspired as the designer. If you make this pattern, please tag me on social media @nineinspired so I can see!